Surfers are everywhere. And they all seem to be the cool creative types. Or people who are generally just set on doing what they love. Seriously. I don’t know if it’s because I’m more sensitive to it now after having started surfing and making a surf movie – or if it’s because the surfing culture is bigger than it’s even been. Prob both.
Andrew Field has found a way to fund his surfing lifestyle by creating ‘Rockaway Taco’. A business he believes in. He spends his summer doing this, and then surfs his way around the world for the rest of the year. Check out this video from The Selby.
Whereas Metallica’s Kirk Hammett says that “surfing is the only thing that brings me that feeling, that rush, that’s similar to being on stage and playing in front of people.” Check out this vid by Creative Destruction.
People all have different reasons for surfing, whether it’s winning, that rush when you drop down the face of the wave or that zen feeling of a sunset surf – but what’s most important is that you do it because you love it. No matter who you are, whether you’re a rockstar, a politician, or a an average joe blow, the one thing that surfers have in common is that they’ll do anything to continue doing what they love. Hearts on fire.